We arrived in Setulang on a Saturday, and a bunch of the men were working on a boat for next year's district-wide race. The boats are carved out of a single log, and they're long enough to carry up to 50 people
A lot of the guys wore these traditional rattan hats, which are supposed to be strong enough to protect your head from knife wounds on the battlefield. "People used to be bad," one boatmaker told me. "They fought all the time. Now you can come visit our village, and nobody tries to kill you."
The most common tool looked like a tiny hoe. People use it to chop directly toward their knees, which made my inner Girl Scout nervous. But in a culture that historically relies on blowpipes, machetes and palmknives, these guys are pretty good with a sharp instrument.