The big stink

After watching the sun rise over Bromo from the viewing point, you go over to the mountain itself and climb up a giant staircase to the crater rim. Unfortunately, we arrived during a Big Stink: sulfurous volcanic fumes were blowing right down the stairs, giving everyone coughing spasms, runny noses and red eyes.

Jason climbed with the aid of a handkerchief

The walk up was pretty caustic. Things were actually a little better at the top, where there was less sulfur in the air and more plain old mist. The crater rim was amazing: a knife-edge walk with a sheer rocky drop on each side. But nobody wanted to hang around too long, so we abandoned our plan to hike around the rim and headed back down.

Jaclyn on the edge

The walk from the bottom of the staircase to the parking lot takes maybe 20 minutes. But if you're feeling silly, you can ride a horse instead. Chad and I were feeling silly.

My horse was named Pako, and he was adept at getting down the steep, sandy path.

I think Chad cut a fine figure on his steed.